Journalism / The Joy of Age: Wine Review

The first thought that popped into my head upon sniffing the cork (and we all do this...) was "Borkum Riff" Cherry Pipe tobacco. My mother’s first impression was "church wine!" We all know that the enjoyment of wine and food are intimately personal experiences for all; Hence my mother's and my reactions. But notice where each reaction harkens back to. Childhood. When I was a child, my father smoked Borkum Riff pipe tobacco. When my mother was a child, she went to a church in her native Quebec that poured wine made by the local monks. The wonderful sense of smell, although not as acute in humans as in other mammals, is a gateway to memories and this wine in particular brought the two of us back to our youths in a flash!
The color of fine balsamic vinegar, each sip of this Spanish beauty whets the palette. So coating is this wine that, after a few sips, my returning lips now adhere a bit to the rim of my glass. It's not often that a wine literally "melts in your mouth." But this one does. As the liquid coats the tongue, it lightens in density and fills your mouth in creamy caramelized fig. Light tannins unfold to the back sides of the tongue and you are left with a slightly earthy, wafty, tobacco essence in your nasal passages.
What else can I say but go out and buy some! I have had younger vintages of this...but recommend getting one that is aged. There is something so special about opening a bottle that was sealed and laid to rest when you were 6 years old and all you had on your mind was running naked through the house after the dog.

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